Tag: Perfume

Artithmetics Of Perfumery

Two years ago, in 2011, French magazine Le Nouvel Observateur published an interview with the perfumers Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, who regretfully mentioned, that their newest perfume creation called La Guerre des Nez (i.e. The War of the Nose), which costs 100 eur, actually costs 1,5 eur to produce. A little shocking, isn’t it? 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/haynephotography/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/haynephotography/

Even though the topic of prices in perfume industry is still a very sensitive as well as confidential topic, French perfumers are very open about it. They claim that advertisement and distribution is way more expensive than the initial product itself. Besides, perfumers only get a relatively small salary and it does not depend on popularity (or disgrace) of the perfume they create at all. The total price of La Guerre des Nez – 100 euros – is just the price of advertisement and distribution, mainly. The initial product, which is the liquid in the bottle, in perfumery world usually represents only 2-3 per cent of the total cost of producing it. Out of 100 euros one pays for the perfume in a boutique, money goes to VAT (19,6 eur), distribution (36 eur), advertisement (25 eur) and so on. It seems that the money we save to have the bottle of our favorite perfume doesn’t actually reach the hands of creators; they rather reach hands of assistants and marketers instead.

Some numbers

Given day may actually seem a little shocking, but it actually is not: science is partly to blame. Today, the great majority of perfumes are not coming from nice smelling gardens fulls of beautiful flowers. They are rather made in laboratories out of synthetic molecules. It actually takes 750 kg of jasmine flowers to create only 1 kg essential oil, which could be used for perfume. And it’s even worse with roses: they must be picked by hand, flower by flower, at sunrise. The initial price of rose can cost up to 35,000 DKK, whereas its synthetic equivalent costs only 3,500. Therefore, synthetic materials are cheaper to make than it used to be, though a century ago perfumers would not spend that much on advertising, too.

An interesting fact is that successful businesses always earn even from such small amounts that they get in return. An advertisement of a perfume is a good investment into future sales. A good example of that could be Chanel: Miss Gabrielle has advertised her perfumes widely in ’30, and the result of that is a very beneficial and positive Word-Of-Mouth even after more than 80 years have passed. In such cases, companies save advertising money (since they consider they’re already well-known) and therefore earn more.

How to choose it, after all?

The only way to tell the quality in perfume is to smell it. You should not rely on prices as an indicator of better materials used. The retail price of the perfume bottle is largely determined by the environment in which it is sold; setting the price has literally nothing to do with the cost of an item. If it is branded perfume, it will naturally cost much more, but your nose is the only “detective” to check the quality and preference of perfumes you choose. Actually, the cheap perfume you like might be even better than an expensive bottle of branded perfume, since in this case the biggest amount of money you pay are for the brand, not perfume itself. As fragrance consumer, the only way to get better perfume is to train your nose to recognize the “best” materials. Try forgetting the labels, prices and brand knowledge you have prior to buying; try asking for testers in perfume stores (Magasin and Salling are usually up for that) and try perfume on your skin for a couple of days, until you are sure that is the perfume you enjoy. Don’t forget that in perfumery the price does not reflect quality – only your senses do.

Magics From The Perfumery World For The Fall

When autumn comes, one can see the reflections of changes in nature and in peoples faces. Graying weather and darkness around causes nostalgic thoughts about the vibrant and colorful summer, a blissful moment full of giddy smells and charm. Even though summer, without a doubt, is a greatest and the most vibrant season of the year, autumn also has a lot to offer regardless of a number of layers of your clothing.

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First and foremost: change your perfume as summer changes. I know, you might say that you have one favorite smell you do not want to change into anything else, and that smell, most likely, is sweet and fresh, reminding you of hot summer days at the beach. Since fall has started, it could be a good idea to match your nostalgic feeling for the summer with the romantic, strong smell – well, after all, you are a busy and goal-reaching woman, aren’t you?

Fresh versus solid

If you have troubles concentrating and still catch yourself thinking about the carefree summer, it could be a good idea to get a perfume with the dominating smell of flowers and berries. Such perfume would make a perfect guilty summer pleasure that you left for yourself and, even after summer is gone, you know where to find pieces of it right when you need a fresh summer breeze. If your budget is tight, you could take a look at what Elizabeth Arden has to offer. If you feel you can spend a little more than 200DKK, try smelling “In love again” by Yves Saint Laurent or “Hot Couture” by Givenchy, which will definitely make you think of fresh berries in the summer time.

If you like fresh and simple smells (that probably also remind of summer), then you, most likely, like to use simple, single-base perfume. I doesn’t surprise me that one of the favorite brands for Danish women is American brand “Clean”, representing line of perfumes resembling such scents as fresh laundry, outdoor shower, rain or soft cotton. The company claims that they choose to fill each day with the favorite things and rituals or, as they call, “perfect pleasures in life”. Yet if you want to have a little more cheeky and feminine pleasure for autumn, I would rather advice to choose a solid, traditional scent. The only (simple) thing is to know how to choose and what to choose. And in all cases I, personally, would always go for a expressive, energetic scent.

If I had to reveal a secret, I don’t think there’s anything sexier than a busy, self-confident lady dressed up in classical suit with the white shirt, having a big bag, computer, rushing to her next meeting and smelling good, a little expensive and luxurious perfume. Such a stylish an idyllic autumn picture. And now imagine a couple of men, waiting in the meeting room, checking balance sheets they prepared and then SHE comes in the room: a woman who makes everyone look at her. The one who’s smell takes their breath away. Oh well, I might’ have over-imagined the whole situation, but one thing I know for sure: strong, classical perfume only boosts self-confidence, and that is something we all need, especially in autumn. One thing that I absolutely adore about the classical perfume is its complexity and richness. Such classical and well-known perfumes as Chanel, Jean Patou or Dior have a rich and complex effect. Besides, it stays really long on your skin (as well as clothes!), therefore you feel self-confident and attractive for a day as minimum.

If you are interested in classical perfume yet would like some kind of “spice” in it, reflecting your uniqueness, you could try oriental Lolita Lempicka “Lolita Lempicka” perfume as well as Tom Ford “Tobacco Vanille”, having an intense and a little flirty smokey vanilla smell.

Scent family for fall: oriental and woody

Clean and simple, but strong and energetic. It seems that’s all what’s needed in a fall perfume, but it might be a little harder to choose it than just talk about it. If you are interested in perfumes and have had at least a couple of different ones in your life, you probably know that perfumers split fragrances into a set of “olfactive families”, which are the different groups that fragrances fit in. As weather changes, perfect perfume for fall would be oriental/spicy or woody. You only have to choose one according to your taste, budget and character.

Oriental: such combinations create deep, strong smells. Kind of mysterious, isn’t it? It could also give hints of a clove smell. If you enjoy oriental/spicy fragrances, you should try Dior “Addict” versions.

Woody: The other choice would be woody perfume, which give hints of a sandalwood, cedar, patchouli and pine. Such smells are mossy, down-to-earth and stable, a little less energetic and deep than oriental/spicy yet still very feminine. One of the most known examples of such category are Black by Bvlgari.

 

Remember that self-confidence and sexiness does not lie within clothing. It lies within your thoughts, your mood and your emotions, therefore try to enhance them in order to make best out of it. Melancholy of the fall cannot fight seductive and self-confident emotions as the latter ones will always win, regardless of season and/or situation. Even if you don’t fall in love with autumn, make autumn fell in love with you.